Hi

Im looking to buy a short body MU2 preferably a Solitaire anyone have or know one for sale other than the ones advertised on the usual websites

Thanks

Mine will be for sale as soon as the hot section is complete on the right engine. Left engine had a hot section about 300 hours ago. Mine is an M model, 290 knots TAS. I was waiting to advertise it until its almost done. Just completed the 100/200/600 hour inspections as well. Email me at jdworley AT gmail

Mine will be for sale as soon as the hot section is complete on the right engine. Left engine had a hot section about 300 hours ago. Mine is an M model, 290 knots TAS. I was waiting to advertise it until its almost done. Just completed the 100/200/600 hour inspections as well. Email me at jdworley AT gmail

Likely lowest time MU-2 in the world
https://mu2b.com/wp-content/uploads/202 ... -Sheet.pdf

93 hours in 14 years?

I doubt that was even over the years. Probably sat a lot.

Sometimes "low time" is too low.

Mike C.

I doubt that was even over the years. Probably sat a lot.

Sometimes "low time" is too low.

Mike C.

If you want to sell your F PM me. I’m shopping very casually.

yeah, I agree, but does this matter as much for turbine engines? Wonder what I could get in trade for an F model......

To me the time in the Last 14 years is a non-issue.

The Mu2 is not the kind of thing you should dive into for a year or two and decide it is not for you. You've analyzed your mission and this is your mount for the next decade or whatever. Think long term, I hope.

You'll always have that low time airframe and all its related components (dash 10s!, jackscrew nuts, nutplates, all the hundreds of bushings, etc.).

The first few years on ANY Mu2 (any plane?) will be a painful series of teething issues, even one that is "dialed in". You have to go in expecting that and the first 1-3 years will have abnormally high expenses.

But at some point they start to go along with your way of thinking and you'll have many many years of trouble free operation.

So if you are a "lifer" in aviation and you've done your homework the juice will be worth the squeeze (I hate when people say that). Maybe you'll get lucky and your expectations will be exceeded .

Tj

If you check out the following things:

1. Bore scope for corrosion in the engines (and other faults). You are buying two engines and everything else is thrown in for free, effectively.

2. Inspection fuel tanks for microbial growth. There are test kits for this. If you find this, then tank corrosion is a distinct possibility. It can be hard to clean this out and not have it recur, too.

3. Check for infestations of bugs, mice, birds all over the airplane.

4. Careful look at the logs for hose and other rubber replacements. A good visual inspection of same.

5. General corrosion check. I would want to know where the plane was kept most of those years as that affects the concern I would have for its condition.


When I sold my MU2, it was very dialed in, causing me no issues for long periods of time. In the first year, the new owner had perhaps a dozen things come up. It was like the plane knew it had been sold and became needy. It got to be a little embarrassing when the new owner would report some issue and I had to say that I never had that happen to me. It was the truth, but still...


This is true. When you fix things, fix them for good so they stay fixed and you will be happy in the long run even if that means a bit more pain short term.

Mike C.

^^ Totally agree.
A GOOD borescope* is #1. (* = meaning somebody that knows what they're doing)
I'd do a SOAP sample also.

What can actually be seen/ verified by borescope on Garrett TPE331? I have been advised there is little value in scoping a Garrett if it is not split...

I think a really good tech like Neil can see enough of the turbine wheels to know.

The "split" terminology sounds like PT6 thinking. TPE331 doesn't "split" since it is all one shaft.

I can relay a story of a person dong a prebuy on an MU2 many years ago. The ground run temps were a bit off, so they borescoped it. Found first stage wheel looked like mice had eaten it on both engines, they had been operated significantly over temp limits.

Net result, no sale, and it took $150K to fix it, later sold to someone else with new HSI.

Yes, a TPE331 borescope is useful and can see things that are important. The first stage wheel is the most critical.

Mike C.