In my 1972 C182P I have a pilot window that opens about 6 inches hingeing from the top.

When I open it when I am flying, even relatively slowly (say, 80KIAS), the window shakes and vibrates quite significantly in the air stream. I can see it is only a matter of a few minutes or so before the bottom holding bracket will break off.

Is there an STC that allows the window to hinge up 90 degrees and click/snap securely into place against the bottom of the wing?

This would allow much better aerial photography. (And, when the weather was just right, a different and enjoyable way to enjoy flying).

Related to this, for some missions I remove the rear bench seat. (I have a W&B for this I switch to). Is there an STC for (temporarily) removing the baggage door? This would allow, with appropriate (secured) pillows a photographer to photograph out the baggage opening.

Yes, I have heard of an STC for a floor-installed photographic window. But still, that is photographing through plastic, which for some projects (the artsy ones, not the science ones), is not acceptable.

Thanks for any thoughts/experience/suggestions. (As always, if there is a thread on this already, I welcome a pointer to it. My search did not pop anything up.)

Best,

Bill

Remove the screw that attaches the arm to the window frame and then tape it down to the window frame. This will let the window fly parallel with the wing.

What Scott says, screw. Then I fly, and reach across over and firmly hold window open, daughter runs camera from copilot side.

The window will “fly” as Scott described. No need to hold it. It won’t bang on the wing or flap in the wind. It opens straight out and stays there.

An experienced photographer taught me not to fly circles around a ground subject. The wing is always in the way. Fly rectangles. Shoot photos while straight and level.

I learned the screw removal trick with the pilot getaway brothers many years ago.

To lower the window just put the flaps down and it will close nice and smoothly:)

I have several hundred hours taking photos of objects on the ground while flying circles around them, both as pilot and as photographer. Coordinating to lift the wing or kick the strut out of the way isn’t difficult.

Unless your windows are really trashed or you’re doing professional art quality photos, it’s often better to just leave the windows closed and shoot right through them. I did lots of A/B comparisons and proved that very, very few people can tell the difference, including pro photographers.

You need to have the front of your lens close enough to the window that the camera won’t focus on any scratches, and make sure the sun isn’t shining on it.

Me too. Normally I fly photographers who are needing to document (the science part). But just recently I was starting to work with an art photographer and he was unwilling to photograph through anything (All my windows are less than 1 year old—they seem pretty good to me.) When I look at the “science” hi-res photos (the ones through the back windows) I cannot see any degradation/reflections. But then again, not my profession and nothing is getting blown up for an art gallery.

I will look for the window latch screw and see how my plane works as suggested. And, am still thinking about removing the baggage door too.

-Bill

For the completely open window case, you can put a piece of industrial strength double sided sticky Velcro on the lower outside of the window to it open while taxiing; works well and white color blends in with my plane. Remember to close window before opening door..

Best,

Tom

William,
I am not aware of an STC to remove the baggage door. I suspect the aircraft is legal for flight with one door removed per the TC and that would be the least invasive option. There are also a few STC options available through USPA that might be useful (though more permanent in nature).

Also, a good drone will likely cost less than modifications to an aircraft...

Great Lakes sells a photo portal/window that installs on your existing windows.

https://www.glapinc.com/Cessna/details/1159.html

I have tinted windows... Makes a big difference

CAP installed those portals on a bunch of the 182s, and frankly, I hated them. It always seemed like the window wasn't where I needed to point the camera, and they caused more problems than they solved.

The window will hold itself open over a certain speed. I can't remember exactly what it is, but I think it's around 80 knots. Below that, there's not enough wind to hold it open.

Are you guys sure you can just take the screw out? I could swear that these windows had a kind of a nut plate inside the window frame, and if you took the screw out it would slide down and then you'd be SOL.

Maybe it's just certain years, or just 172s or something? I remember we had to pay an A&P to fix it after an eager FNG took the screw out before a photo mission, and there was much chatter about it.

Thank you for all three heads-ups. -Bill

I've done it on a C model and it was fine. I look at my R later, but I assume it'd be the same.

I wish someone would make a door steward-esque system to hold it open 90º

Yes, quite sure. The nut plate is securely attached. But even if it did fall out that would mean the window wouldn't hold itself open on the ground. That's why god gave you an arm.