Hi Chuck, I’m interested! Can you PM me with a good time to call you next week? Thanks.
Mark

Here are the ones we just finished.

Mike, I too may be interested. Any pointers for getting the old lettering off, or can we just put on top of existing markings. Thanks, D

These are laser etched and ready to drill/cut and trim. You’d have to remove the existing placards and replace with these

Hey guys- preparing for the annual after my first year of ownership. I’d love to get my 71- turbo E to someone who has a lot of experience with Aztecs. I live in NC but would be willing to bring it to Florida or anywhere within a few hundred miles. Recommendations?

Bill Turley at Aircraft Engineering, Inc. in Bartow, FL KBOW. He’s looked after ours for decades, knows them in and out!

I only wish there was a Bill Turley somewhere here in the West....

Anyone know of an Aztec shop west of the Rockies? Hearing rumors Diamond Aire may be done for.

Even a competent Navajo shop would do...since many of their systems/engines are similar.

Diamond-aire is still open. He is down to a few employees, and has a shop renovation going on. He was closed for several months due to heart surgery. He is back now on a regular basis

Thanks for info, Chuck.

That's very good news!

Mark

Aztec porn

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Diamond-Aire Pedestal carbon fibre covers.

New Placards, Led Gear handle kit, with Electronic flasher

I’m looking for the insulated terminal block used in the landing gear handle for 75 turbo E. The part number is 753-037. Does any one have one or a suggestion on where to find one.

Thanks in advance.

Gents,
I'm looking for a thorough pre-buy checklist. Thanks in advance.

v/r
joe

IMO, step one, remove the interior side panels. The windows leak and the steel tubing below them gets rusty. Many airframes have been totaled that way. Cross that off the list before spending money checking anything else.

You going to do it yourself or have a shop?

Step one is maintenance manual, step two is probably making sure they have a hydraulic mule to test the power pak functionality, airframe and AD inspection is pretty normal but the power pack is expensive and a PITA to get in and out, need the proper equipment to test it unless you’re going to remove the pump and try to run the pump with a power tool. Not on my plane for a pre buy.

-check nose gear trunnion for broken or cracked turn stops from exceeding turn limits while towing. If stops are broken check for twist in steering T bar mounted to aft side of trunnion
-you can inspect the two prone areas of the steel frame for rust without pulling the entire interior. Start with removing the large panel behind the nose gear. The areas beneath the door and the emergency exit and the aft lower fittings where the empennage attaches need to be looked at closely.
-check the gear and drag braces for free play while on jacks.
-check gear actuators for pitting, corrosion on housings and for leaks
-check all flex hoses-there are lots of them
-check fuel selectors for clean shut offs and detents if Dukes-Pricy
-function test check crossfeed valve and drain-getting hard to find
-plan on new fuel caps unless it is an F
-you can check powerpak and gear flap functions pretty well with the onboard hand pump. Retract the gear and make sure selector returns to neutral position w/hand pump (same on extension). Check the gear door rigging and leave gear retracted for an extended period. If it sags down then you likely have a powerpak issue or an internal leak in an actuator
-check exhaust for cracks and frozen slip joints-especially crossover connection in front. If the the tail pipe hangar is broken, or slip joints are not free cracks to the stacks will follow.
-check oil cooler mounting-usually repairs on top of repairs unless upgraded to high capacity later system that takes the cooler of of the left rear baffle
-Check fiberglass nose cowls and integrity of connection to bottom cowls
-check AD compliance on flap fittings-commonly pencil whipped
-airframes seldom have any internal corrosion issues.
-good idea to make sure emergency exit can be easily removed-commonly stuck closed.
-check for later style X braced engine mounts that do away with repetitive inspection AD.
-check for cracked engine exhaust ports
-check for sagging lord mounts. Spinners should line up with nose cowls
-check overall condition of baffles and seals-important on an Aztec
-inspect spinners and bulkheads for cracks
-check hydraulic pump for fluid coming out of seal drain hose
-function check heater and check for AD compliance
-on test flight, before extending the gear select gear up. If you feel a bump then the gear was sagging down. The handle should immediately return to neutral with no bump or delay.
-select gear and flaps down simultaneously to ensure gear priority valve is functional. Gear should lock down and handle return to neutral before flaps start down. Can be done in flight or on jacks)
-look at the upper attachment points on the main gear actuators. The sometimes bend from hard landings.
Look at the attach points on the drag brace A frames in the main wheel wells. The holes get elongated and the attach flanges can crack

Would help to know what year model, TTSN and if Turbo or not