This design solves that problem, removes 15 lbs, and makes it capable of handling multiple uses on a single flight.


Maybe, I don't know.


The forum won't allow an STL file to be uploaded, so I changed the extension to PDF. Simply download the file, change the extension from .pdf to .stl, and then the file will open in tools that can read STL files. Ask a friend with a 3D printer.

Also, there are free online STL viewers, an example.

https://www.viewstl.com/

The original design is in Solidworks. If you want the SLDPRT file for it, I can send that to you. If you want to change the shape, dimensions, etc, and have access to SW, then that is the way to go.


Yes, I downloaded from the forum, changed the extension to "stl", and I can load it into my CAD tools. I also tried the free STL viewer above and that worked, too.


Search for "3D printing services". Likely FDM is the cheapest method. You'd want to pay for a seal coating and paint if available.

I had some local guy do it who has since left the area so I don't have a lead to give you. He printed it in 2 parts and glued it together, then sealed, primed, and painted it. He charged $215 for that work, which seemed cheap.

Mike C.

Thank you!

$215 including the printing and painting is a steal of a deal. I had to shrink it 3% to be able to get it to fit in my 3D printer (Bambu H2D), a regular Bambu H2S can fit it 100% without needing to shrink it. The software says it will be just over 1kg of filament and a 23 hour print. JLCPCB says it will FDM print it for $750, or SLA print it (even better as it will already be watertight) for $275. You can also have them sand it and or paint it to your liking for about $40 more. I've never used them for 3D printing, but have had aluminum molds made and they were top notch. There's others too like PCBWay or finding someone local with a 330mm printer bed minimum but I don't think you're going to do much better than the SLA for $275.

I'm assuming this isn't a structural component (non weight bearing)?

Chip-

I thought so, too. I suspect the guy who did it would charge more now :-).


SLA seems less robust, but could work.


Not load bearing, the frame and seat above do that, so it really doesn't have to be strong.

If the bag leaks, you may have to take it out of the plane and wash it, so it needs to survive some handling, but ti doesn't support any weight.

Washing the bucket is a LOT easier than washing out the Monogram toilet bowl and tank. Ew, what an awful job that is.

The only other part I made was a small frame that kept the bucket aligned in the toilet cabinet:

This was made from 1/4 inch sheet plastic and bolted to the cabinet bottom. The space to the left inside the cabinet is where I store refill bags ready to go.

Mike C.

An old customer had this happen on a G-IV back in the late 90s. It was around $2M when it was all said and done. Fortunately, it did not migrate to the flight deck. That blue juice is really corrosive, particularly when capillary action wicks it underneath and keeps it against the skin. It will eat through zinc chromate as well, or find a way to, given enough time.

OMG

Chip & Mike C agree on something!


RAS

Well, I gotta get back to work on the dry-flush. It's been a helluva year.