10 Jun 2025, 07:06 [ UTC - 5; DST ]
|
Username Protected |
Message |
Username Protected
|
Post subject: Re: Engine stumbling C421 Posted: 28 Feb 2016, 20:09 |
|
 |

|
|
 |
Joined: 08/20/09 Posts: 2528 Post Likes: +2078 Company: Jcrane, Inc. Location: KVES Greenville, OH
Aircraft: C441, RV7A
|
|
Username Protected wrote: Jack,
I have had poor success with the Ram spring-loaded clamps for the inductions hoses. My memory is that when at FL210 and max allowable MP, the induction system is about 10 psi above ambient. I have gone back to the TCM clamps, PN AN737TW82.
The other problem is that the fuel line support that goes under the induction hoses tends to create a gap - and or to stretch the hose in that vicinity. I have gone to replacing those hoses whenever the induction manifold had been removed. I use the Ram hoses PN 1125-2. You may also try to relocate the fuel line supports so that they are clamped to the OD of the hose using a separate clamp. You can also slice a section of an old hose and use it around the tube as the support - i.e. clamp in an area where there is no induction pressure or suction.
For the metal induction tubes coming off the cylinder, these frequently get mangled by mechanics using screwdrivers to force the hose loose. I suggest replacing all that are mangled. All are the same PN 639323, except for #5 which is PN 641520.
The gasket between the metal induction tubes and the cylinder head almost always breaks when work is done on the tubes. Replace these every time, PN 649950.
Unless your intercooler has an induction air temp probe, there is a pipe fitting the the forward top that is good to use as a pressure test port for induction leaks. Another way to check induction leaks is to use something like the attached photo to go on the intercooler inlet. Be very careful with the clamps that go the duct between the turbo and the intercooler. Very easy to mangle these. The clamp is PN AN737TW114, the sleeve (expensive part) is PN 630881-1
For upper deck air leak checks, pull the upper deck air line off somewhere around its source downstream of the turbo and attach an air fitting. If there is an upper deck air leak near the injectors, gas would rather exit through the leak than go into the cylinders.
Finally, when you are in there working on this stuff, check every fuel injector line from the sypder to the cylinder head. I can almost guarantee that you will have chafing on several of them. Also check the large fuel supply line going to the spyder for chafing.
If you have the 7th nozzle solenoid (421 SN 1000+), check those lines carefully for chafing. Thanks Dan! Lot of good info. Saved for future reference.
_________________ Jack N441M N107XX Bubbles Up
|
|
Top |
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot post attachments in this forum
|
Terms of Service | Forum FAQ | Contact Us
BeechTalk, LLC is the quintessential Beechcraft Owners & Pilots Group providing a
forum for the discussion of technical, practical, and entertaining issues relating to all Beech aircraft. These include
the Bonanza (both V-tail and straight-tail models), Baron, Debonair, Duke, Twin Bonanza, King Air, Sierra, Skipper, Sport, Sundowner,
Musketeer, Travel Air, Starship, Queen Air, BeechJet, and Premier lines of airplanes, turboprops, and turbojets.
BeechTalk, LLC is not affiliated or endorsed by the Beechcraft Corporation, its subsidiaries, or affiliates.
Beechcraft™, King Air™, and Travel Air™ are the registered trademarks of the Beechcraft Corporation.
Copyright© BeechTalk, LLC 2007-2025
|
|
|
|